Rock Climbing Arches National Park

Arches Overview

Click here for more information about Arches and the surrounding area.


Most climbing routes within the park require advanced technical skills. All climbers are encouraged to obtain a free permit. You can obtain a permit online here.

ARCHES CLIMBING AREAS & ROUTES

ELEPHANT BUTTE
Standard (West Fins) 5.3, Trad, 1 Pitch, 1100 feet
TOWER OF BABEL
Zenyatta Entrada 5.4 C2+, Aid, 6 Pitches, 450 feet
OFF BALANCED ROCK
Northeast Chimney, 5.7 R, Trad, 2 Pitches, 120 feet
SUNSHINE WALL
Learning Curve 5.7, Trad, Sport, 1 Pitch, 120 feet
Tezcatlipoca 5.7, Trad, Sport, 1 Pitch, 40 feet
Melanoma Shuffle 5.8, Sport, 1 Pitch, 140 feet
Love Hurts 5.9, Trad, Sport, 1 Pitch, 120 feet
Science Friction 5.9+, Sport, 1 Pitch, 160 feet
OWL ROCK
West Crack 5.8, Trad
THE 100-YARD WALL
The Doil 5.8, Trad, 1 Pitch, 120 feet
DEVIL’S GOLF BALL
Regular Route 5.9 C1, Trad, Aid, 5 Pitches, 400 feet
THE GREAT WALL
Chinese Eyes 5.9+, Trad, 1 Pitch, 70 feet
SHEEP ROCK
Virgin Wool 5.10- C2+, Trad, Aid, 5 Pitches, 400 feet
PARK AVENUE
Heart of the Desert 5.10c, Trad, 1 Pitch, 80 feet
THE THREE PENGUINS
Right Chimney 5.10+, Trad, 2 Pitches, 150 feet
DARK ANGEL
West Face 5.11, Trad, 2 Pitches, 150 feet
THE THREE GOSSIPS
West Face 5.11, Trad, Grade III
Be There or Be Talked About 5.11 C1, Trad, Aid, 3 Pitches
ARGON TOWER
West Face 5.11, Trad, 3 Pitches, 250 feet

CLIMBING ETIQUETTE

If you want to be the most environmentally-friendly climber in the whole-wide universe (which would be awesome), then consult the park’s Climbing & Canyoneering Management Plan. In the meantime, here’s the regulations you should know about immediately:

• Rock climbing groups cannot exceed 5 people per group.
• You can only free climb or use clean aid techniques. DO NOT install pitons.
• The physical altering of rock from its natural position such as chiseling, breaking rocks to reinforce crevices and pockets as anchors, glue reinforcement of existing holds, and gluing new holds is prohibited. The intentional removal or "gardening" of lichen or plants from rock is prohibited.
• DO NOT USE WHITE CHALK. Chalk or chalk substitutes used in the park are required to be similar in color to the rock that you’re climbing.
• DO NOT USE motorized drills within any wilderness boundaries. Use of a motorized drill outside wilderness areas requires a special use permit.
• Leaving fixed ropes in place for more than 24 hours is prohibited, unless the park has been notified.
• DO NOT SLACKLINE OR BASE JUMP anywhere within the park boundaries.
• Bivvying overnight requires a backcountry permit. Camp at least one mile away from designated roads and 0.5 mile from trails.
• Guided rock climbing services are not allowed.

CLIMBING TIPS

• Check the weather first
• Do your homework and know your route
• Inspect all fixed gear
• Be prepared to self-rescue
• Tread lightly. Leave No Trace. Pack out what you pack in. Don’t mark rocks.
• Don’t step on biological soil crust. Walk in sandy washes, on rock or on designated trails.
• Be considerate of other visitors
• Consider leaving your pets at home
• Experts use gear expertly
• Check the NPS site for any route/area closures before you go

 
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