Lake Powell in Winter

Lake Powell is one of Utah's most popular summer playgrounds, offering water, sand and sunshine pushing into dazzling red-rock scenery.

But the scenery is just as spectacular during winter and at this time of year you can often enjoy the lake in relative solitude. Yes, the water is chilly and so you probably won't want to ski, wakeboard or swim. But the air temperature is delightfully mild most days and it is enjoyable to explore the multitude of desert canyons surrounding the big lake.

Powell is one of the most popular houseboating destinations in the world and houseboat rental rates are significantly lower during the winter. Most houseboats have heaters and so you can stay warm and dry even if you venture out on the coldest of days. The big boats also offer comfortable beds, microwave ovens and entertainment systems - some even have fireplaces and hot tubs.

Alternately, you can stay in a lodge at one of the marinas and make day-trips to explore the area, using your own boat or a rental. If you are hardy and have good equipment, you can even camp on the beach. The winter sky is clear and you'll never see brighter stars. On a remote beach, miles from the marina, the serenity is amazing.

What to See and Do

Rainbow Bridge
Rainbow Bridge is the most popular attraction on the lake. It is an impressive rock span, a rainbow frozen in stone, thought to be the largest natural bridge in the world. It is a must-see.

By boat, Rainbow Bridge is about 51 miles from Wahweap Marina and about 49 miles from Bullfrog Marina. Tour boats bring tourists to see the bridge from April 1 throughout October 31, but not during the winter months.

Remote Canyons
Lake Powell extends for some 186 miles above Glen Canyon Dam. Its waters provide boat access into 96 named canyons, many of which are narrow and wind for miles back into remote mesas. All told, the lake has some 2,000 miles of shoreline. The lake is huge, and each canyon has its own personality and attractions. You could spend a lifetime exploring the lake and surrounding canyons and never see it all.

Always up for a challenge, it has been my long-standing goal to explore every area on the lake. A couple weeks ago I completed that mission, when I explored the lake's remote San Juan arm. Here's my blog about that adventure.

The mouth of the San Juan arm is about 40 miles from Bullfrog. We boated to that point and then several more miles up the San Juan before stopping to set up camp on a sandy beach. We built a campfire from driftwood and roasted hot dogs as darkness fell and the stars came out. There were no other boats close to us - I think the nearest were about 10 miles away.

As the starlight grew more intense, a profound quietude settled over the lake. No sounds except waves gently breaking against the sand. The starlight was bright enough to allow us to perceive the form of the towering cliffs that surrounded us, but we could not see details. Away from our group, there were no sights or sounds produced by humankind. Such solitude is rare in today's world. To me, it was astounding.

Cathedral in the Desert
During the spring of 2005, drought caused Lake Powell's level to fall to the point that a fabled attraction called Cathedral in the Desert became visible. The Cathedral is a beautiful natural grotto at the back of Clear Creek Canyon, on the lake's Escalante Arm. A delicate waterfall tumbles down a cliff at the cathedral's end. Since 2005, we've had wet years and the lake's level has risen to the point that the entire waterfall is submerged.

We continue to get many calls and emails from folks who want to see the Cathedral. The entire waterfall will not emerge again until the next extended drought, and nobody knows when that will happen. But the top several feet of the waterfall may become exposed during late winter, and it will be a beautiful site worth seeing.

The lake normally rises during late spring and early summer, as snowmelt plunges down tributaries into the lake. And the level usually falls during winter and spring, as water is drawn out for power generation and other needs, and to make room for the coming runoff. On average, the lake's level has risen over the past few years, and that trend is expected to continue. This may be the last season when any part of the waterfall is visible.

Clear Creek Canyon is beautiful and is worth visiting. If you can see the waterfall, that is a bonus.

- Dave Webb

News:

2008-09 Ski
Season Is Underway

Three cold winter storms have now blasted northern Utah and snow is piling up at Utah's ski resorts. As a result, Utah resorts are opening ahead of schedule. Snowbird was the first - it opened on Nov 7. That was the second earliest start to a season in the resort's 38-year history.

Before the opening, Snowbird provided this information: "More than 3 feet of snow has fallen in November, and cold temperatures have allowed snow guns to operate, adding to the already impressive early season snow totals. Last year, Snowbird received 611 inches of The Greatest Snow on Earth® and had a 183-day season with skiing and riding from Nov. 30 to June 22."

At this writing, another storm is bearing down on the state and so snow totals will undoubted rise quickly. (See our snow report.)

Other resorts will quickly follow snowbird's lead. Brighton is set to open on Nov 12 and Solitude has announced a Nov 14 opening. Most resorts will be open by Thanksgiving weekend. Watch our Travel Headlines blog for more details as they become available.

Events:

Thanksgiving... then Christmas Lights

Thanksgiving is a quiet holiday in Utah, with many people traveling to be with family and friends.

Hotels, restaurants, gas stations and convenience stores will be open but many other businesses will be closed. Many hotels and restaurants will offer holiday travel packages featuring scrumptious dinners.

Most of our ski resorts will be open and will offer holiday festivities. Some people have a tradition where they ski every Thanksgiving afternoon. Eat until you can barely stand up and then hit the slopes, starting the holiday/ski season in style.

Friday evening, the day after Thanksgiving, major Christmas light displays will come on in downtown Salt Lake and at other points around Utah. The traditional "lights on" ceremony at Temple Square is always a favorite. The stately temple building is spectacular when surrounded by thousands of multi-colored Christmas lights.

View more Utah events.

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