Highway 12's Magical Mystery Tour

Temperatures in Utah shifted abruptly from cool to hot during the last week of May, creating conditions where it is very enjoyable to "go jump in a lake." This is a great time to enjoy water sports on our lakes and reservoirs.

Early summer is also a great time for "water hikes" in our red-rock canyons. In canyons like the Narrows in Zion Park you have to wade or swim through pools as you make your way along. Waterfalls are destinations for hikers in other areas. The photogenic waterfalls on Calf Creek are great examples in this second category. The Upper Falls is about 60 feet high and the lower one tops 126 feet. Deep pools ideal for swimming are located under both falls - wonderfully relaxing, refreshing desert havens that are particularly attractive on hot summer days.

With visitors in town for Memorial Day, I decided to take them on a tour of some of the waterfalls along Highway 12. We hiked Upper Calf Creek first and I was really looking forward to a plunge in the pool. I dove in eagerly and swam into the spray from the falling water, calling for my companions to join me. Rookies all, they sputtered and gasped when they hit the water; the creek was still picking up snowmelt and was so cold it took their breath away. They acclimatized after a few moments and enjoyed the swim.

Calf Creek will warm a degree or two through the summer, but will be cold and refreshing even on the hottest days

We also made the short, easy hike to Mossy Cave and the waterfall on "Tropic Ditch," on the east side of Bryce Canyon. Mossy Cave is cool and inviting on a hot day. Water trickles from the ceiling in many spots. Its fun for kids to stand under these "mini waterfalls." Tropic Ditch channels water from the East Fork of the Sevier River to the town of Tropic. Near Mossy Cave it cuts deep into the sandstone and then falls about 30 feet - a very scenic and photogenic waterfall. However, there's no place to play in the stream and no swimming hole under the waterfall. The flow was high and fast when we were there, making the waterfall more impressive but creating hazardous conditions should anyone enter the stream.

Highway 12 is ranked as one of the most scenic roads in America and it offers opportunity for adventure at every turn. Also on my itinerary was a mountain bike ride through Red Canyon. There's some great, rugged single-track in the area but this time we decided to ride the new, paved trail that parallels the highway through Red Canyon, peddling below Bryce-like rock formations. Start at the top and its downhill for five miles. My kind of ride.

Ruby's Inn, located at the entrance to Bryce Canyon, can set you up with bikes. They rent top-of-the-line equipment and can provide maps and descriptions of area trails.

Highway 12 winds down from the alpine forests of Boulder Mountain, climbs the stark slickrock cliffs of the Escalante Canyons and then bisects Bryce's orange spires, towers and hoodoos. It cuts through a wonderland full of magic and mystery.

I drive that highway dozens of times a year and I've stopped to play in almost every cove and canyon. But I was totally surprised by the scene as we turned from Hwy. 12 onto US 89. In front of us was an old West town seemingly stuck in a time warp. A bunch of Butch Cassidy-style outlaws were robbing tourists at gunpoint in front of the livery. It was a scene right out of Dodge City's Gun Smoke.

We investigated and discovered Silverado Wild West "Movie Town" Resort. "We offer an adventure experience, not just another place to sleep," said Ayla Burnett, one of the owners. Ayla's group recently acquired the property and they have opened a full-service Old West resort catering to families and groups. Call ahead and they will stage a robbery as you arrive. They also do shootouts and will arrange other "experiences" on request. The entire staff is constantly performing and they enjoy "playing" with guests. They offer regular dinner shows and the opportunity for guests to "star" in a western. With your companions watching, you can act out a scene and the images will be inserted into a video - you become the star of the film.

The entire property is full of authentic western artifacts. They display more than 20 historic saddles, including one that belonged to Poncho Villa, another owned by Butch Cassidy and the saddle John Wayne used in many movies.

The restaurant features excellent home-style Western cooking and they are happy to customize menus. Accommodations now include 80 rooms furnished in western style. They are adding a Victorian village with a bed and breakfast that will offer the finest accommodations available from the period. They have facilities for horses and will soon have a herd of buffalo.

Call ahead, even just a few minutes ahead of your arrival, and they will arrange an experience for your family or group: 435-676-8770.

Other opportunities

Utah is Butch Cassidy country. He grew up in the town of Circleville and often used hideouts in our rugged canyon-country. KUED TV from the University of Utah has prepared a documentary, called Butch Cassidy and the Outlaw Trail, which will air locally on June 18 at 9 p.m. It will reveal important new information about the life of Butch and Sundance on their Argentina ranch, and will probably be shown nationally later in the year.

A Pony Express re-enactment will occur on June 14, with riders covering the distance from Missouri to California. The event is co-sponsored by the Utah Pony Express Association. Riders are expected to arrive at Camp Floyd/Stagecoach Inn State Park at about 1 p.m. An admission of $1 per person or $5 per car will be charged. The park is located in Fairfield, south of Salt Lake City on US 73.

Free Fishing Day is Saturday, June 14. A license is not needed to fish in Utah on that day only. Other regulations are enforced.

The Utah Shakespearean Festival will begin on June 19 and run through August 31. The Tony Award-winning festival is based in Cedar City. Motels, resorts and B&Bs cater to festival visitors.

An ATV Roundup will be held at Bandanna Ranch on June 27-28. The ranch is a private, ATV-friendly recreational property development located between Strawberry and Currant Creek reservoirs. The public is invited to participate in the event, which will involve trail rides, an obstacle course, tug-or-war, cookout, campout and other activities. Participants need to bring their own ATVs. Call Pat Ford for more information: 888-476-5515.

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