On the Trail of the Ancient Anasazi

There is an impressive ancient Anasazi (Ancestral Puebloan) ruin located along Hyw 276. If you pay attention you can see it from the road as you drive from Halls Crossing on Lake Powell toward Blanding and Monument Valley. To see it you have to glance in the right direction, but most people zoom by at a high rate of speed and never notice it is there.

This particular ruin is one of my favorites because it taught me to slow down and open my eyes. It has helped me realize how much I don't see when I look at the world. It's had a similar effect on other people I've taken there.

We humans tend to be preoccupied. People driving that highway are busy reminiscing about the fun they had at Lake Powell, or they are planning their next vacation or business deal, and they don't notice the crumbling stone walls of the multi-roomed cliff dwelling.

The few that do notice it stop and admire the site from the roadway, or hike to get a closer view. Their reaction is almost always the same. They look around with genuine interest and seem to enjoy the experience. But after about five minutes they get bored: "Neat old rock walls. Can we go now? I've got things to do."

That's the feeling I had on my first visit. But it was a hot summer day and I wanted to rest for a few minutes before starting the short hike through the sand back to my truck. I sat down in the shade of the alcove and enjoyed the cool air and the red rock scenery, as I dismissed the cares of the day from my mind.

As I relaxed I started to notice some of the more subtle wonders of the ruin. The cliff walls came alive with strangely shaped rock art figures: mysterious animals, geometric designs and monsters resembling hominoids. Some of the shapes are barely visible, pecked into the stone but covered by rich patina. Others were carved more recently - patina hasn't yet formed over the newer shapes. Some figures and handprints were created with white, black or red paint.

Then I noticed eroded steps carved into the cliff above the ruin, leading to an area where god-like figures have been painted onto the wall.

In the floor of the alcove I noticed rocks that have been hollowed by years of wear, as native workers ground corn into meal.

Exploring a little, I discovered that the canyon walls on both sides of the ruin contain splendid panels of rock art - some of the best in the area. These things, taken together, seem to indicate that the site was used for many years by various groups of people.

And, sadly, I noticed that many panels of rock art have been defaced by modern graffiti. Vandals have defaced some of the oldest figures and on one wall a layer of plaster is almost completely covered by modern names and dates.

Each time I visit this site I'm rewarded by seeing more of the intricate details that are hiding here in plain site. It's a fascinating place.

The Anasazi culture reached its zenith in this area between about 900 and 1300 AD. During this 400-year period, these people built impressive great-homes and religious kivas and mysterious towers, working native stone to create structures that follow the contours of sheer cliffs and sloping alcoves.

And then, some 700 years ago, they walked away, abandoning their homes and grain storage bins, their braided sandals and delicately painted pottery.

Stone buildings, rock art, pottery shards, corncobs and other artifacts from these mysterious people can be seen throughout the canyon country of southeastern Utah. Indeed, some researchers say there are more ancient artifacts per square mile in this area then anywhere else on earth.

Some ruins are clearly visible from roads and popular hiking trails, but it is amazing how many people go by without noticing them.

I'm sure the same is true for many of the wonders in this world: the birds and flowers, the flowers underfoot, the laughter of children. Perhaps we would understand and enjoy our world more fully if we took more time to listen and see.

Many of the Anasazi structures have stood intact for about 1,000 years. But now they are threatened because they have been discovered by modern man. We find them fascinating. Every year, more and more people seek out these ancient sites. Sadly, we risk loving them to death.

If you visit ruins, please take care so we don't destroy the objects of our love. Don't touch the rock art and don't climb on the stone walls. Look, take photos, but take nothing else. It is illegal to pick up an arrowhead or pottery shard.

Utah's Canyon Country Travel Region offers a free, downloadable PDF brochure which provides directions to many of the best ancient sites. You can download it here.

- Dave Webb

This monthly email newsletter is designed to provide timely information about travel and vacation opportunities in the national park country of southern Utah, northern Arizona and western Colorado. Please forward it to friends you think may be interested.

We encourage you to support our sponsors.

UNSUBSCRIBE / UPDATE EMAIL

Also read our free monthly Utah Travel Tips newsletter.